I started out with a rotary machine but never really seen quality until i switched to coils, i started out using the cheyenne hawk spirit for lining and shading and it seemed a logical answer at the time. Being inexperienced, the though of not tuning the machine seemed easier also the high quality cartriges seemed easier but the thing i had the most trouble with was trying to find a good speed to run the machine at where i would see consistent results. the machine did work well i have seen many other artists use it very well. I really do love coils now mainly because of their adaptability and the many ways you can custom tune your machine like your springs or changing your gap. This is why i love the coil machines, the way you can customize it then turn your speed up until it kicks over and you hear that specific sound kind of like tuning a guitar. So when i was using the cheyenne there was no perfect sound that i heard that sort of told me that i was running the right speed. Now im very intrested in getting ahold of one of those injecta machines because i would like to use the same tools you do at least for a little while to see the difference. i was just wondering if there is a certain way of figuring out how much power is enough and how much is too much without having to sort of test it out, because i can remember starting a tattoo thinking this is the right speed but it wasnt. i want to try rotaries again but will most likely have the same problem of not being sure whats a good speed. Rambling now anyways hope everyone has a good day today!
I just switched to a rotary and look to feel the correct vibration in the stretching hand.
thanks for the tip!
thank you so much for the tips really appreciate it!
thank you so much for the tips really appreciate it!
I've been running my Flite at close to minimum, at around 8.5-9 volts. This is with the 3.5mm cam and the middle spring bar. I'll usually start out by turning down until the machine stops, then going up a quarter turn (or 3 clicks on a push button power unit) so that it's just above minimum. This allows me to layer the color a bit more than if it were hitting harder.
Awesome thank you for the tips, plan on getting the flite 2.1 soon! thank you been learning so much on here, set my coil machine up the other day so that it needs a flick of the wrist to make a connection and its working beautifully. although i dont know how long my front springs will last it seems to be making a decent sized dent in the front spring at the contact point. thanks everyone for the solid advice and merry christmas to all
I've got two rotary works, one which I use for lining and I only run it at 5v (I mainly use it for 5s and 7s), and one I use as a shader (my go to mag is an 11) which I run at 8v. They're two different models. I've also got a Dan Kubin mc14 which I tend to only use for rounds (specifically 7s) and I run that at 6.4v. Obviously I change these sometimes depending on the job, but not too much.
7.3 volts for my rotarys for shading or color packing. the rest is in my hand technique
Need technical support? Call (413) 585-9134 or email